|Here's some I finished earlier|
Step 5 - Cleaning up after previous errors
Having previously completed the base coat of yellow through the use of Casandora Yellow Shade and Lamenters Yellow Glaze, I then block out the remaining base colours:
|Leadbelcher for the metal bits|
GW Leadbelcher Base
I'm not wild about GW's replacement for Boltgun Metal. I recently found a couple of pots of Boltgun (including one in a hexagon pot) which I'm jealously hording for special projects. It really does flow and look considerably better than Leadbelcher. However for the purposes of this tutorial I used Leadbelcher (which combined with my general shoddiness explains the poor coverage shown in the picture above).
Step 6 - Shading 101
I then painted the shoulder pad trim in a thinned coat of black paint and also part of the body of the bolter. The various packs and containers around the marine's belt were painted with a thinned coat of Mournfang brown.
|Black and Brown|
Metal areas were given a covering of Nuln Oil. Finally the lenses of the helmet were given a thin coat of Evil Sunz Scarlet.
GW Abadon Black Base (thinned with Vallejo thinners)
GW Nuln Oil Shade
GW Mournfang Brown Base
GW Evil Sunz Scarlet
Step 7 - Damage limitation
With the main colours in place and some rudimentary shading added, I introduced the first phase of weathering.
I also gave the black trim on the armour a second coat to improve colour density.
GW Stormvermin Fur Layer
Step 8 - Decent into madness
Up to now nothing in this tutorial should come as a surprise, it's all very straight-forward and pretty simple to do. The most complex part is the initial shading using Casandora Yellow.
Now things go a bit weird (you have been warned)
When I first started trying to emulate the amazing work of the Forgeworld team I learnt to use Oil paints and White Spirit to line and shade various parts of tanks. Originally I followed the Forgeworld approach of gloss varnish and then applying a thinned line of Oil Paint to the area I wanted to line. However I discovered that if I used a thin layer of White Spirit / Thinners directly onto the model, I could avoid the need to use a gloss varnish (and could also increase my exposure to poisonous, evil smelling chemicals). However this worked almost as well and also gave some interesting effects.
I've used a similar approach on the Imperial Fist marine here. The main edges of the armour and anywhere I want better definition is coated with a thin layer of Low Odour Thiners (Daler Rowney or similar). They aren't any less hazardous but the smell better). I normally use an old brush for this as it has funny effects on a brush after a while and you can't use the brush for water based paints afterwards I find.
With the model suitably prepared I mix up a batch of thinned Burnt Umber oil paint until I have a liquid which is almost fully opaque but still flows like a liquid. Again using an old brush (but one which still maintains a point, I apply a small amount of the Burnt Umber to the model). As the surface tension of oil paint is considerably lower than a water based paint, the combination of thinned oil paint and thinner covered model causes the paint to be drawn along the detail.
I then do this for all the model until I'm happy with the effect. The model may look a bit weird at this stage - I generally avoid the temptation to apply too much paint and if it flows into places I don't want, I use a cotton bud to remove the excess.
Once the miniature is covered, I then leave it to dry (or if I'm in a hurry apply a hair dryer to it).
Once dry you can see the burnt umber lining on the main armour plates. As it's an oil paint the edge is much more feathered than I can achieve via an Acrylic (better painters than I can do better but I'm lazy). The burnt umber shade seems to work well with yellow too, giving the whole armour a 'lived in' appearance.
I'll try and post some pictures of step 8 in detail next time I'm doing it.